In the quiet hum of El Masnou, a picturesque fishing village nestled just half an hour from Barcelona, acclaimed filmmaker Carla Simón has found her refuge. Far from the escalating clamor of the bustling city, Simón, whose film ‘Alcarràs’ garnered eight Goya nominations, has chosen a life where the rhythm of time is dictated by the gentle ebb and flow of the Mediterranean waves. This coastal gem, intimately intertwined with the sea, offers a unique blend of tradition, striking ‘indiano’ architecture, and nearly three kilometers of expansive golden beaches.
El Masnou, situated in the Maresme region, has transcended its role as a mere transit point to become a coveted destination for those yearning for peace without sacrificing connectivity to the Catalan capital. Its history is deeply rooted in maritime trade and the training of skilled navigators, a legacy that continues to shape its identity. The town’s old quarter is a labyrinth of narrow streets, where humble fishermen’s cottages stand alongside grand colonial mansions – testaments to fortunes made across the Atlantic. This rich tapestry of urban landscapes, imbued with subtle nuances, resonated deeply with Carla Simón, herself raised in a Galician family profoundly connected to the sea.
A Port, Pristine Beaches, and ‘Indiano’ Mansions
The marina, now a vibrant hub for nautical leisure, remains the pulsating heart of El Masnou. It is surrounded by bustling sailing clubs, inviting restaurants, and lively meeting points, all offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. The beaches of Ocata and El Masnou, renowned for their spaciousness, urban accessibility, and meticulous upkeep, are ideal for a variety of activities, from paddle surfing and kayaking to beach volleyball. While the railway line acts as a physical divide, it also serves as a vital artery, allowing countless Barcelonans to reach this coastal paradise without the need for a car.
The architectural heritage of El Masnou provides a captivating journey through time. From the venerable Sant Pere church to the verdant gardens of Parque del Llac, and encompassing the elegant Casino del Masnou and the Casa de la Cultura, the town showcases a succession of modernist, neoclassical, and French-inspired buildings. The distinctive octagonal towers of Casa del Marquès and the school designed by Bonaventura Bassegoda are eloquent reminders of an era when the village flourished through lucrative overseas trade.
Local Gastronomy and Nautical Culture
The culinary soul of El Masnou truly comes alive during its gastronomic fair in May and the wine festivals in November, when the DO Alella takes center stage. Restaurants nestled near the port and along the promenade proudly serve up local delicacies such as soupy rice with lobster, steamed mussels, grilled cuttlefish, and charcoal-grilled sardines, all perfectly complemented by the crisp white wines of the region. A number of establishments also offer innovative culinary experiences, from desserts featuring wine reductions to tapas that creatively reinterpret traditional seafood recipes using locally sourced ingredients.
Beyond its culinary delights, El Masnou boasts a vibrant cultural scene. The Museu Municipal de Nàutica chronicles the town’s rich mercantile past, while cultural events and popular festivities, such as the unique ‘bajada de trastos’ (descent of junk), add to its charm. The town also offers extensive sports opportunities, particularly in sailing, having nurtured Olympic-level sailors within its nautical club. This harmonious blend of history, sea, architecture, and exquisite cuisine explains why figures like Carla Simón have chosen this villa as their home. Some places, without fanfare, simply possess everything.
Source: https://www.elconfidencial.com/viajes/2026-01-21/villa-marinera-barcelona-donde-vive-carla-simon_4287349/