Madrid Aims to Cultivate Its Own ‘Calçots’ with Local Varieties
Madrid, March 30 – The Community of Madrid is embarking on an innovative agricultural project to cultivate its own ‘calçots’ using regional onion varieties. This endeavor, if successful, could mark a significant gastronomic and agricultural achievement for the region, allowing local farmers to grow and market this traditional delicacy.
The project, named Alliummad 24, is spearheaded by the Madrid Institute for Rural, Agrarian and Food Research and Development (IMIDRA). For the past two years, researchers have been meticulously analyzing five different types of onions with the goal of adapting the ‘calçot’ – a tender, elongated spring onion traditionally associated with Catalonia – to Madrid’s specific climate and soil conditions.
Understanding the ‘Calçot’ Tradition
The ‘calçot’ is a young, elongated spring onion originating from Catalonia, with its historical roots in Valls, Tarragona province. It holds a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. These onions are cultivated in a unique way: after an initial harvest, the bulbs are replanted, and soil is mounded around them to encourage the growth of tender, white shoots. These shoots are the edible part and have become a celebrated gastronomic product in Catalan cuisine.
The consumption of ‘calçots’ is a social ceremony known as a ‘calçotada’. The ‘calçots’ are grilled directly over embers until charred on the outside and tender within. They are then wrapped in newspaper to rest and served hot. Diners eat them by holding the green end, peeling off the burnt outer layer, and dipping the white part into ‘romesco’ sauce – a blend of tomato, ‘ñora’ pepper, almonds, and garlic, which is an inseparable accompaniment to this dish.
The Alliummad 24 Project: Research and Development
IMIDRA’s research has been conducted over two years, with support from professionals of the PGI Calçots de Valls. The study has focused on five onion varieties: one from Toledo, two from Tarragona, and two indigenous to Chinchón. The Chinchón varieties, sourced from the Alcalá de Henares Vegetable Germplasm Bank, are particularly significant as their seeds can only be produced in the Community of Madrid, ensuring their territorial exclusivity.
This territorial exclusivity makes the Chinchón varieties prime candidates for developing ‘calçots’ with a distinct Madrid identity, setting them apart from commercial varieties. IMIDRA’s technicians are evaluating key parameters to determine the best-adapted variety for the region, including sprouting, the number and diameter of shoots, the white length of the stem, and the plants’ resistance to pests, diseases, and irrigation needs. Each of these indicators is crucial for guaranteeing a high-quality final product.
From Field to Table: A Gastronomic and Agricultural Leap
The project recently advanced with a demonstration day held at the El Encín Farm, attended by Rafael García, Deputy Minister of Environment, Agriculture, and Territorial Planning. During the event, IMIDRA’s technicians detailed the research progress, and attendees had the opportunity to sample gastronomic preparations made by the regional Gastronomic Innovation Center (CIG), showcasing the synergy between science and gastronomy.
This initiative serves a dual purpose: to protect the region’s agricultural biodiversity by recovering local varieties that might otherwise be lost, and to create a new market niche for Madrid’s farmers. The regional government aims to protect the cultivation of a profitable, high-quality product while simultaneously recovering the territory’s plant genetic heritage.
IMIDRA’s Role in Agricultural Innovation
IMIDRA is the public body of the Community of Madrid responsible for promoting research, technological development, and innovation in the rural, agricultural, and food sectors. Operating under the Ministry of Environment, Agriculture, and Territorial Planning, IMIDRA undertakes projects ranging from conserving plant genetic heritage to developing new varieties adapted to the region. Its main headquarters, the El Encín Farm in Alcalá de Henares, also houses the Vegetable Germplasm Bank, a repository of native seeds invaluable to regional agriculture.
The Alliummad 24 project exemplifies how applied science can bridge gastronomic tradition with agricultural innovation. Should Madrid’s ‘calçots’ successfully establish themselves in local gardens and markets, the Community will have achieved something truly unique: adopting a Catalan tradition and making it its own, rooted in local history and Chinchón seeds.
Source: IMIDRA (Madrid Institute for Rural, Agrarian and Food Research and Development), Community of Madrid
